Amsterdam: Highlights (November 11-17)

When we arrived in Amsterdam, I bought Norah a newly released graphic novel adaptation of Anne Frank’s Diary. I thought this could be a way to make Anne Frank’s story and the broader story of the Holocaust a little more accessible to her, but also present it in a way that would not be traumatizing. (It is recommended for younger kids and I highly recommend it, actually).

On Monday night, Norah and I visited the Anne Frank Huis, the secret apartment that became her family’s hiding place for two years during World War II and the place where they almost successfully evaded Nazi capture. As my friend Elissa said when she visited in October, one of the saddest things about the Frank’s story in particular is that they were so close to making it through undiscovered. One of the remnants in the apartment today that frames this so well is a map on the wall where they were tracking the allied armies moving through northern France. Amsterdam was just months away from liberation when the Franks were arrested and deported.

 Of course, the power of Anne Frank’s story is the window it provides to understanding a much larger piece of history, it is one story among millions of stories of tragedy. I wanted Norah to understand this both on a human level, but also as a Jew. I also wanted Norah to glimpse, if not understand fully, how fortunate she is to live in this time and this place with all the resources and freedoms we enjoy.

 But, in truth, I think the whole experience just went right over her head. And, I think this is probably okay. In a few years, as she learns more about the Holocaust, I hope she can call back these memories of living in Amsterdam, so close to Anne Frank’s hiding place, and that it helps her more vividly understand the events that unfolded here.

 It is also important to note that while the Anne Frank Huis was the secret apartment where the family hid during the war, it was not actually Anne Frank’s house before they went into hiding. That house is in a beautiful and quiet neighborhood in the south of Amsterdam, a neighborhood where we would likely look to live if we were staying here longer.

 Last week, on our way to the public pool, we got off the tram and I realized we were standing right in front of her house. Today, a small statue of Anne stands on the parkway near the building. I took a picture of the kids standing with it.

While visiting the museum, I noticed this photo of Anne and her friends taken on Anne’s 10th birthday. (I even asked special permission to take a photo of this photo as you are not allowed to take photos in the museum!) You can identify the same building in the background of both pictures.

This birthday photo is so striking to me because I feel like I could have taken the same photo of Norah and her friends celebrating her 10th birthday just a few months ago. Anne Frank’s story is so universal – and such a cautionary tale - because it could so easily be our story instead. I hope that this is what Norah (and Ben) come to understand in the coming years.

 Okay – so on to brighter topics.

 In school this week, the kids celebrated the feast of St. Martin, by making paper lanterns and singing holiday songs. This is a children’s harvest festival that I understand to be a little bit like a cross between trick or treating and Christmas caroling. Our neighborhood didn’t seem to be in the holiday spirit, but we enjoyed walking around with our lampions.

Eli and Norah had their much anticipated daddy-daughter night on the Pizza & Burger Canal Cruise, a super touristy affair that Norah had been wanting to experience.

Ice skating opened on the Museumplein, behind the Rijksmuseum, and we stopped by to try it out.

And, Sinterklaas rolled into Amsterdam on a boat on Sunday to officially usher in the holiday season, along with hundreds of Santa’s helpers, the Zwarte Piets (Black Petes). We had treats at Andie’s house, which is right on the river, and had a great view of the boats.

Zwarte Piet has gotten something of a rebrand lately. The character now wears “sooty face” from helping Santa get down chimneys rather than representing a Moorish character from 19th century Spain, which was traditionally portrayed with blackface, along with a curly wig and lipstick.

Here is a crew of Piet’s going by.

And, here is a hilarious take from David Sedaris on Zwarte Piet and the differences between American and Dutch holiday traditions.

 We are getting ready for our last visitors, Eli’s mom, Candida, and aunt, Karen, to arrive this week, which will be our final opportunity to play tourist in our adopted home town. We look forward to sharing our favorites with them.